All I ever want
*
Surfing makes me happy.
East Coast.
No waves so I paddled a mile on my 9’0, found a few ridable nugs along the way, hung out until my feet went numb. Snuggling Roxanne for warmth by the fire now. Besides some actual swell, being salty is the best gift all day every day. Feeling very grateful.
For my niece’s christening, I got her a subscription to The Surfer’s Journal. I told my brother (her dad) it was the most religious gift I could come up with. He just sent me this and it made me so happy!
soul rebel.
This morning.
“ I live to surf and surf to live. I need to surf like you need Mc D, Gas and Cigarettes.
I had such a long, weird and excellent day. I toured much of the Jersey shore (yes, even Seaside Heights, which is terrifying) with Ami. It involved multiple ocean swims, coffees, lighthouses, and one man in a striped shirt saying “I’m just not a big Wes Andersen fan. I mean, I liked Rushmore and Bottle rocket, but-“, and I just thought that was so funny. AND I took loads of photos, which is kind of a big deal because I haven’t been shooting anything, at all.
Committed to 9 months of schooling today. Set up for a wedding at work, then drove to the ocean in a frenzy, hoping for pounding surf to alleviate my general worries about the committing. Obviously it was flat calm, and I was forced to follow suit. Calm, cool and collected. I put on my pajamas without showering, sleeping in sand and salt tonight. Also my regrettable winter bangs are growing very fast and kitten is chewing my salty curls.
as the sun gives way to the fish-belly moon
as the breeze of may becomes the hurricane of june
your shadow passes over me less frequently
for i have drifted slowly to the far edge of the sea
(Source: Spotify)
earth, water, fire, air.
ocean please
surfed for the first time in 3 weeks.
feeling much, much better than I have in 3 weeks.
I just want to surf until I’m hungry, then eat until I’m tired, then sleep until it’s time to surf again.
